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Props, Scenery, Costumes and Makeup
 Community Theater Green Room Discussion Board :Producing Theater :Props, Scenery, Costumes and Makeup
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Joan54
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bullet Topic: Costume Job
    Posted: 11/07/06 at 10:58am

At one of our recent productions (Taming of the Shrew) the owner of a New York City Theater Company admired my costumes and has now offered me a job.  Costumes for Twelfth Night.  I want to discuss the pros and cons of this and ask for your advice.

First of all I am thrilled.....me!  the BIG time.  I have always made my costumes to professional standards and I guess it has paid off.  I am also dismayed....what have I gotten myself into?  I don't have a costume department -  I have a sewing machine on my dining room table.  I don't have staff or even any friends who can pitch in and help me sew and I have a demanding day job with an unsympathetic boss.  I live 80 miles from NYC so the commute alone is going to be a headache. But I want this...I really do. 

First of all...I was honest with the owner.....told him that in three weeks ( dress rehersal will be Nov. 29) I couldn't possibly start from scratch...even if I quit my day job which I can't do.  I requested a cast list with a general description of body type and will match them to existing costumes and maybe make a few new pieces.  I'm going to load all of these up and haul them in this weekend and start fittings...maybe bring my sewing machine in with me and set up backstage for Saturday and Sunday and try to get most of the alterations done right there.  Is this really unprofessional?   Am I supposed to just make notes and take everything home and do it there?  Am I going to look like a complete amateur  if I show up with my portable machine?

I haven't negotiated money yet and I don't know where to begin.  I was thinking of charging by the hour for sewing time AND travel time - maybe 50.00 an hour? Then basically renting the costumes to them...per actor?per performance? How much is reasonable?  Should I get a cleaning deposit from them?  Should I forbid any of the costumes to be taken home?

I want this to be a positive experience for the theater and for me.  I want this job to lead to another bigger and better and then on and on and I'll thank you all when I win the Academy Award.

Any advice?

"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Nanette
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bullet Posted: 11/07/06 at 11:29am

Congratulations, Joan54!  It's quite a compliment when a professional company sees your work and wants you to come work for them.  This just recently happened to me, so I know your dilemma.

Firstly, you must ask the director if his company has any costume agreements with other companies.  If so, then send your actors measurements and show specifics (Twelfth Night) to the costume designer of the companies and ask if they have anything that will work.  Don't specify colors or patterns, however.  If they have anything, they will let you know and tell you when you can come take a look (give them at least a week).  You go and HOPEFULLY someone has pulled them, however, usually you're pointed in the general direction.  If you're lucky you'll find just what you need, but YOU have to do the running to the various theatres.  If you borrow from another company you MUST return the pieces exactly as you received them ... no alterations, just tacking things us.  Personally, I think that takes much more time than sewing from scratch.  If you have your own stuff, even better!!!

I don't think it's unprofessional to sew backstage, personally.  I used to do it all the time.  You have the person there for a fitting when they can break away from a rehearsal.  I'd check with the director first, though.  If he says yes, then pack up your machines (I'm assuming a standard machine and a serger?!) and head off to the city.  Be sure to bring everything you'll need ... I keep all my notions in a large fishing box; fabrics in a large clear storage box.  Some companies maintain a costume shop and a resident hall, a place where the resident designers (costume, set, lighting, directors, etc.) can stay if they need to be in town for an extended period, or if it's too dangerous to drive (snow storm, exhaustion, etc.).  You might ask about that, too.

You failed to mention family?  If you're married, how does your spouse feel about the whole thing?  Can you afford to take three weeks away from your children?

Financially, can you afford to take time off from your job?  Do you have sick leave you could take?  As far as the theatre is concerned, have they shared the specifics of the budget with you?  Will you get paid or simply have a budget?  You need to nail all this down before you sew stitch one.

I was offered a nice little sum PLUS a budget for sewing/renting stuff.  I took a day and weighed my options and decided against doing it.  I simply had too much on my plate.  I'm not sorry I didn't take the job, it just wasn't the right time for me.  However, if it's something you really want and can give up everything else for the next three weeks, then go for it!!!

In a world of margarine, be butter!
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Joan54
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bullet Posted: 11/07/06 at 11:52am

Thanks for the advice and the support.....I'm blissfully single but I look after my disabled daughter (26 yrs old).  I can leave her for overnight trips and any longer I'll bring her with me and she can stay over at a friend's in the city  so the family commitments are not a problem.  I can't take any time off from work without a big scene...I have no more vacation time left so basically I am stuck Monday thru Friday out here...at work.

I asked about costume agreements with other companies and apparently not.....they have always done their Shakespeare in modern dress....this is an experiment for them...using period clothes.

I'm glad that you think it is alright to come prepared to work right at the theater while rehearsal is happening.  I like to do that.  It gives me an opportunity to watch the actors move and get to know them.  Sometimes I can dress someone well if I know them a bit better. 

Finally  - the money.....I know that the first thing I have to do is work this out. I really don't want to undersell myself.....but I want to do this so badly that I know I'll settle for what they offer me....any suggestions on what you think would be reasonable/  Have you ever rented out your costumes?  What is a fair amount for a show? 

"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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DramaMamaStill
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bullet Posted: 11/15/06 at 1:55pm

I costume for a high school play

When I have rented costumes from a local university they charged me $26.00 per item (if a matching suit that would constitute one piece) They needed to be cleaned before returning however and any alterations needed to be removed.   We signed a form that listed the costumes in detail with any current flaws noted.

 

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Shatcher
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bullet Posted: 11/16/06 at 11:34am

$50.00 an hour is not to much to ask for for the sewing time. I charge the same when I am asked to come in and consult on a show or make repairs. A large costume shop is going to charge more than that. As for the price of the rental of the costumes. 25% of the value is a good rule of thumb. If the piece cost you $200.00 to make (don't forget to add the cost of labor) rent it for $50.00. You could do this for every piece or each costume set.

How great for you to get this offer... I am sure it will turn out well for you. Keep us posted.

Good Luck

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Joan54
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bullet Posted: 11/17/06 at 8:25am

Thanks for the support...I took the job. I couldn't help myself...I am so star-struck.  It was so great to be treated like a professional!  Assistants met me at my car, carried the costumes in, helped me load later.  I am so used to doing everything myself I felt absolutely pampered.  I got almost the entire cast fitted with costumes I have already made so what I have to do this week is some size adjustments, a couple of new hats and some extra shirts.....not as much new sewing as I expected.  I'm not entirely thrilled with the money they are paying me but I know I negotiated poorly because I wanted to do it so badly I would have done it for free and that probably showed in my body language.  On the other hand I was assured that there is more work with this theater and I can hold out for more in the future.

Anyways...thanks again for the advice and support...got to go...lots to do...

"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 11/17/06 at 6:43pm
G?donya Joan!
Watch out for the imposed Extra?s you may get lumbered with. Like you would on a building site, carry a cheap duplicate invoice/order book, when they request an ?extra? beyond the contract? get them to sign the order!
Paper work is gold & saves a lot of argument when it comes to them paying out. Also it is a good cross reference for you when making up the invoice, keep a job card as well on the project. Each time they deviate or change there minds it is an additional &/or new contract.
Write out another job card & x/ref with job number when updating your work daybook.
I?m sure you know all this from your day job anyway!
Remember ?the price is forgotten, when the quality is remembered?.
Being a ?Mobi-Atirer? look toward a ?Service knock on the door Fee? over & above the normal rate, for each time you they request/expect you to front up to do the job.
This would be something for the future to consider that of a standard service fee added to the first hour you have to front up each day, to cover out of pocket expenses/cost of service or as a form of daily podium!
Also get your own labels produced eventually. [Even if it is just a logo]  
Which work wonders as an on going reference, especially adding labels to the costumes you produce. Which the company & cast will identify your work. That may lead to future business as they move from company to company & spread the word.

      Joe
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turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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Nanette
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bullet Posted: 12/08/06 at 6:08am

How did it all go, Joan?  You sounded so excited about the entire experience ... now we want to celebrate with you!  Smile

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Joan54
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bullet Posted: 12/12/06 at 2:13pm
Sorry that I've been out of touch.....been busy and every time I was at the computer I've been working too much to goof off with you guys.  Well it was a lot of work...mostly the commute was the worst.  I took the train back and forth ( about 90 miles each way) and got home very late on a lot of nights but the ego boost was worth it and the cast and crew have been the best I have ever worked with.  The play will be closing this Saturday and I will be going in for the final performance.....I'll be sad to see it end but I won't miss the travelling.  Would I do it again?  In a heartbeat.  Would I ask for more money?  You bet.  I have already started redesigning some patterns for basic costume bits so that they will be easier to  alter ( put three sets of laces in bodices...armpits and backs / more hem allowance on everything / strings and elastic in hats / detachable sleeves etc.)  I have continued my research this winter and know what I need to keep my costume department expanding ( ruffs, cuffs and shoes...not to mention better hose).  I also need to photograph more....and put labels in everything so they can't "wander off".  Get away from the pitfall of "authentic" and keep reminding myself that the theater costume is different...bolder and broader.  I need to see the ensemble colors as a whole...narrow the color pallet.  Everything needs to be washable....the beads held on with hot glue guns are a resounding failure....the beads I faked with puffy fabric paint a great success.  Cotton velvet only.....no synthetics....the list goes on and on.  If I ever actually get all of this written down I'll share it with all of you first thing.
Thanks for the support.....hopefully this is the beginning of bigger things for me ( not that I can quit my day job or anything) but you know the local community theater approached me to do costumes for "My Fair Lady" and I'm thinking...here we go...and it isn't even my "era"....we would have to start from scratch there....but - my heart will always belong to the group who borrows the barn..hangs up the lights and "puts on a show"...  
"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 12/13/06 at 8:24am
Fantastic Joan!
I hope you got plenty of kudos & programme credits in the form of an advert with contact numbers.
One other thing besides the tags, if they use any pics with your costumes in on their web sites, try & get a credit there as well!
So when you firing up your ‘have costumes will travel’ [Cosi’s on the move] web site?Thumbs%20Up

      Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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