At one of our recent productions (Taming of the Shrew) the owner of a New York City Theater Company admired my costumes and has now offered me a job.  Costumes for Twelfth Night.  I want to discuss the pros and cons of this and ask for your advice.

First of all I am thrilled.....me!  the BIG time.  I have always made my costumes to professional standards and I guess it has paid off.  I am also dismayed....what have I gotten myself into?  I don't have a costume department -  I have a sewing machine on my dining room table.  I don't have staff or even any friends who can pitch in and help me sew and I have a demanding day job with an unsympathetic boss.  I live 80 miles from NYC so the commute alone is going to be a headache. But I want this...I really do. 

First of all...I was honest with the owner.....told him that in three weeks ( dress rehersal will be Nov. 29) I couldn't possibly start from scratch...even if I quit my day job which I can't do.  I requested a cast list with a general description of body type and will match them to existing costumes and maybe make a few new pieces.  I'm going to load all of these up and haul them in this weekend and start fittings...maybe bring my sewing machine in with me and set up backstage for Saturday and Sunday and try to get most of the alterations done right there.  Is this really unprofessional?   Am I supposed to just make notes and take everything home and do it there?  Am I going to look like a complete amateur  if I show up with my portable machine?

I haven't negotiated money yet and I don't know where to begin.  I was thinking of charging by the hour for sewing time AND travel time - maybe 50.00 an hour? Then basically renting the costumes to them...per actor?per performance? How much is reasonable?  Should I get a cleaning deposit from them?  Should I forbid any of the costumes to be taken home?

I want this to be a positive experience for the theater and for me.  I want this job to lead to another bigger and better and then on and on and I'll thank you all when I win the Academy Award.

Any advice?

Congratulations, Joan54!  It's quite a compliment when a professional company sees your work and wants you to come work for them.  This just recently happened to me, so I know your dilemma.

Firstly, you must ask the director if his company has any costume agreements with other companies.  If so, then send your actors measurements and show specifics (Twelfth Night) to the costume designer of the companies and ask if they have anything that will work.  Don't specify colors or patterns, however.  If they have anything, they will let you know and tell you when you can come take a look (give them at least a week).  You go and HOPEFULLY someone has pulled them, however, usually you're pointed in the general direction.  If you're lucky you'll find just what you need, but YOU have to do the running to the various theatres.  If you borrow from another company you MUST return the pieces exactly as you received them ... no alterations, just tacking things us.  Personally, I think that takes much more time than sewing from scratch.  If you have your own stuff, even better!!!

I don't think it's unprofessional to sew backstage, personally.  I used to do it all the time.  You have the person there for a fitting when they can break away from a rehearsal.  I'd check with the director first, though.  If he says yes, then pack up your machines (I'm assuming a standard machine and a serger?!) and head off to the city.  Be sure to bring everything you'll need ... I keep all my notions in a large fishing box; fabrics in a large clear storage box.  Some companies maintain a costume shop and a resident hall, a place where the resident designers (costume, set, lighting, directors, etc.) can stay if they need to be in town for an extended period, or if it's too dangerous to drive (snow storm, exhaustion, etc.).  You might ask about that, too.

You failed to mention family?  If you're married, how does your spouse feel about the whole thing?  Can you afford to take three weeks away from your children?

Financially, can you afford to take time off from your job?  Do you have sick leave you could take?  As far as the theatre is concerned, have they shared the specifics of the budget with you?  Will you get paid or simply have a budget?  You need to nail all this down before you sew stitch one.

I was offered a nice little sum PLUS a budget for sewing/renting stuff.  I took a day and weighed my options and decided against doing it.  I simply had too much on my plate.  I'm not sorry I didn't take the job, it just wasn't the right time for me.  However, if it's something you really want and can give up everything else for the next three weeks, then go for it!!!

Thanks for the advice and the support.....I'm blissfully single but I look after my disabled daughter (26 yrs old).  I can leave her for overnight trips and any longer I'll bring her with me and she can stay over at a friend's in the city  so the family commitments are not a problem.  I can't take any time off from work without a big scene...I have no more vacation time left so basically I am stuck Monday thru Friday out here...at work.

I asked about costume agreements with other companies and apparently not.....they have always done their Shakespeare in modern dress....this is an experiment for them...using period clothes.

I'm glad that you think it is alright to come prepared to work right at the theater while rehearsal is happening.  I like to do that.  It gives me an opportunity to watch the actors move and get to know them.  Sometimes I can dress someone well if I know them a bit better. 

Finally  - the money.....I know that the first thing I have to do is work this out. I really don't want to undersell myself.....but I want to do this so badly that I know I'll settle for what they offer me....any suggestions on what you think would be reasonable/  Have you ever rented out your costumes?  What is a fair amount for a show? 

I costume for a high school play

When I have rented costumes from a local university they charged me $26.00 per item (if a matching suit that would constitute one piece) They needed to be cleaned before returning however and any alterations needed to be removed.   We signed a form that listed the costumes in detail with any current flaws noted.

$50.00 an hour is not to much to ask for for the sewing time. I charge the same when I am asked to come in and consult on a show or make repairs. A large costume shop is going to charge more than that. As for the price of the rental of the costumes. 25% of the value is a good rule of thumb. If the piece cost you $200.00 to make (don't forget to add the cost of labor) rent it for $50.00. You could do this for every piece or each costume set.

How great for you to get this offer... I am sure it will turn out well for you. Keep us posted.

Good Luck

Thanks for the support...I took the job. I couldn't help myself...I am so star-struck.  It was so great to be treated like a professional!  Assistants met me at my car, carried the costumes in, helped me load later.  I am so used to doing everything myself I felt absolutely pampered.  I got almost the entire cast fitted with costumes I have already made so what I have to do this week is some size adjustments, a couple of new hats and some extra shirts.....not as much new sewing as I expected.  I'm not entirely thrilled with the money they are paying me but I know I negotiated poorly because I wanted to do it so badly I would have done it for free and that probably showed in my body language.  On the other hand I was assured that there is more work with this theater and I can hold out for more in the future.

Anyways...thanks again for the advice and support...got to go...lots to do...

How did it all go, Joan?  You sounded so excited about the entire experience ... now we want to celebrate with you!