Stage Trees with branches
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Topic: Stage Trees with branches
Posted By: eagle
Subject: Stage Trees with branches
Date Posted: 5/12/04 at 1:13am
This is what I know:
I have to make 3 trees for a Midsummer Night's Dream school production. We will make use of one wooden pillar we have and a wooden construction and cover these with chicken wire. Then we will use paper mache strips to cover the chicken wire. Afterwards, we will paint them with dark brown and black water colours or spray paint them.
This is what I would like to know:
Some books say that paper mache mixed with cloth will be stronger and it has to be cooked. Could anyone tell me if it is ok, if I boil the wallpaper paste till it's warm and then use canvas cloth strips and newspaper strips to cover the chicken wire? Can I leave out the boiling procedure?
If I want to add branches to the construction, is there a safe and secure way of doing that?
Does anyone have any simpler ways of making stage trees?
Thanks very much!
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Replies:
Posted By: Gaafa
Date Posted: 5/12/04 at 8:35pm
The paper mache process of baking is it to make it stronger, I think you will find, this is used when making furniture items, which are used & made to last a fair while. As in ?Jesso?, which was used in a lot of antique statues, mirror frames & dolls heads. To give it strength & a porcelain finish, to the plaster & muslin. Assuming you don?t require 3 dimensional trees, I doubt you would need to go to the same lengths! The easiest way to do a stage tree, is to use a Jogger Flat as the tree trunk & attach cut out profiles to the sides for the foliage. If your using branches cut from a tree, one main hiccup, is the fact they will rapidly become withered & deteriorate, unless they are treated. When it comes to using poster paint, add some wallpaper paste [?size?] to the paint, this will bond & strengthen the surface.
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Posted By: eagle
Date Posted: 5/12/04 at 9:47pm
Thanks for the information. I guess that the trees won't need to stand much weight like furniture so it won't be necessary to go through the baking process.
I found out that I can use white glue and mix it with warm/hot water to do the paper mache.
As for the branches, could their withering be avoided if I dried/lay them out in the sun for a while and painted them?
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Posted By: Gaafa
Date Posted: 5/12/04 at 11:02pm
If your set on using real tree branches, you can spray them with a preservative to retain their natural colour. However they will be a real pain, no matter what you do to them! The leaves & small branch stems will break & fall off, all over the place, even with the most delicate handling or accidental contact. Rather than having trees as such, if your stage uses Borders & Legs as masking. Just give the impression of the trees. By dressing up the Borders as the trees canopy & the Legs as the tree trunks. Leaving the stage space open for performance. However if there is the need of any action around a tree trunk on stage, just use a flat either dead hung or braced as the trunk.
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Posted By: Spectrum
Date Posted: 5/13/04 at 1:21am
I think construction of the TRUNK of your tree is fairly clear and simple from the previous postings, HOWEVER don't waste time trying to use real leaves, attached to real branches. Besides the obvious fire hazard of dried leaves on stage, they will look awful as they go limp and dry out. INSTEAD, use real branches, devoid of all leaves, and attach silk or plastic foliage, inexpensively available at your local hobby craft shop or importer's store. Just drill holes (at slightly forward angles) into the branches and insert the stem of the "leaf branches" into those holes. Unlike real leaves, they will remain green and unwilted. ALSO, rather than trying to attach the branches to the trunk of the tree (to make this look right you really need to be an artist), simply make the trunk branch up and suspend the "canopy of leaves" from the ceiling (or instrument support structure) so it is positioned BELOW the top of the trunk. Position your branches carefully so none of the leaves or branches are too close to lighting instruments. There's a lot of heat generated and you don't want your canopy burning or melting! The resultant look is a full, leafy canopy to your audience, with the ability to still light your stage without shadows or fire danger. Good luck!
------------- Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional.
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Posted By: Gaafa
Date Posted: 5/13/04 at 9:39pm
G?donya Spectrum for picking up my obvious ?blue? - in forgetting to mention the fire risk! Which [could be a whole topic on it?s own!} As I believe not enough attention is paid to applying fire retardants to sets & materials used on stage. Especial in schools when they use all the right materials to attract fire, such as cardboard, paper, tat & other volatile combustibles on sets, most amateur theatre groups & schools are reluctant to afford or understand the risks involved - until they have a fire - then they run around like a headless chooks, trying to find & polish up their Fireman?s helmet before they can do anything &/or having to read the instructions on the extinguisher before getting it to work. There again the education policy here is not to have fire extinguisher in schools, as they don?t want teachers to be firefighters! - possibly for the reasons I have mentioned above - Nah! it must be for some other reason? Unfortunately here we have eventually extinguished the Fireman?s position backstage all together, unlike Britain & the US. For better & short sighted manpower reasons, in that he was regarded as being highly paid bludger, they can also save the cost of supplying a helmet, sand bucket & an axe. But that?s another story!
Chookas Spectrum
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Posted By: eagle
Date Posted: 5/15/04 at 6:01am
Thanks for the point about fire hazard. Totally not aware of this problem.
Just tried working on one tree these two days but it seems to be a real slow process. Is that normal?
For some reason, the newspaper strips don't quite stick. Perhaps the paper mache paste is too thin...?
So far, we have wrung tissue paper with the paste into pulp mixed with newspaper and that seems to work better.
But does anyone have any ideas how I could create 3D trees in a faster and simpler way?
They need to be 3D because we will change their position and angle to indicate a change in setting. Thanks for your ideas!
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Posted By: DramaMama
Date Posted: 5/15/04 at 6:27pm
http://www.abookshelf.org/blog_comments/orbweaver/archives/single%20tree%20nice%20shot%20smaller%20image.jpg - http://www.abookshelf.org/blog_comments/orbweaver/archives/s ingle%20tree%20nice%20shot%20smaller%20image.jpg
Having recently made some rather fantastic trees in much the same way. We found that the paper does not stick well to the chicken wire. Soak thin fabric bed sheeting, unsized muslin... cheap cheap cheap in a creamy mixture of white glue and water. Wring it out a bit and slap it around the wire. Leave a little give for a barky look.
I think I mentioned somewhere else that trees really are not brown if you look closely at them. A nice gray and green combo is quite good. Especially for Midsummer Nights Dream. Ours even had a bit of blue and black mixed in. I hope these links work http://www.abookshelf.org/blog_comments/orbweaver/archives/Stephanie%20tree%20smaller.jpg - http://www.abookshelf.org/blog_comments/orbweaver/archives/S tephanie%20tree%20smaller.jpg
------------- Art thrives in Adversity
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Posted By: eagle
Date Posted: 5/20/04 at 4:23am
I have gone back to using newspapers and the result is great. As long as we use strips of newspaper and have the tree lying down, the process was done in fair time. We finished the newspaper layers with paper mache pulp and it looks quite good with irregular surface.
Could someone give me some more detail on the type of colours and procedure to use for painting a paper mache tree? Thanks!
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Posted By: Gaafa
Date Posted: 5/21/04 at 2:58am
Start with your base colours brown or grey, then texture by brushing in green or reds. Outline lightly with black & Highlight with yellow & white. What I can remember from my younger days in the Pohmy woods. They were drab & moss covered on the northern side of most heavily wooded areas - not that you need to orientate by the greenest side of the trees or get out your compass to find north! But you will find moss tends to grow more frequent on the sheltered side of the trunk - so pick a side & nominate that as north!
Besides all that! - just use whatever paint colours you have got on hand & mix & match to achieve dimension - the palette is yours! Lighting has possibly more to do with achieving the desired effect with use of Gobo?s & split/gels. Chookas Eagle
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 5/23/04 at 6:50pm
We made trees for Alice In Wonderland using sheets of luaun
(sp?). An 18 x 24 inch base was made with casters underneath
for mobility.
The tree was sketched and cut out of the sheet of luaun. I
made a shallow arc cut in a 2 x 4 and fastened this to the cart.
The trunk wrapped along the edge of the arc and screwed in
place. This gave a 3-1/2 "depth" to the tree. On some of the
carts, I put a shorter tree in from to give a different visual
perspective to the set piece.
We decorated one side to look like a traditional tree using paint
and plastic foliage. The other side was made to be fanciful for
when Alice was in Wonderland using colored tissue paper for a
"flowering" tree.
When the show was over, the trees were unscrewed from the
carts and stored flat for a future production.
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Posted By: EvaB
Date Posted: 5/23/04 at 10:52pm
I saw some lovely trees in a production of The Wizard of Oz (the enchanted apple trees). The base of the trunk was a very large, plastic field tile large enough for a person to stand inside, but this would vary according to the requirements. In this case, arm holes were cut, too. Next, thick carpet padding (the type that is made of bits of foam rubber laminated together) was stapled to the outside -- this was done not smoothly, but so that the surface was irregular, with a rather vertical stratification. Then it was painted with tree trunk colors like brown, grey, black, etc.
The top of the tree in this case was made of a sheet of luan with typical treetop shape, and hole for the face. We later borrowed the trees for a melodrama -- they can be seen at this website. http://www.iowariverplayers.org/orphangirl.html - http://www.iowariverplayers.org/orphangirl.html We put little birds and squirrels in the face holes.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 7/28/04 at 10:35am
We made a life-sized tree in school to hang "giving leaves" from so parents could pick a request to fill for the classrooms. We started with a 3X3' 3/4" plywood base on sliders. The 12" diameter 5' trunk was formed with chicken wire, stuffed firmly with newspaper. 4 main branches were 3" sections 3' long, wired in, another smaller set of chicken wire (1 foot) thinner branches wired to the ends of those, and from each thinner branch 2 wire branches were taped in using electrical tape, then another set of smallest branches at the ends of each of these. To cover, we used plaster-soaked strips of sheets wrapped vertically and horizontally for strength. The branches were thickened appropriately and all jointings were "lashed" with the plaster soaked strips. A skim coat of plaster was applied to the entire tree and texturized, painted dark gray, and we had planned on spray painting tan and black onto that surface. Fanstastic! Until it cracked. Does anyone know of a tough coating we could apply to the surface that would eliminate the problem of cracking? This is heartbreaking!
Puzzled in NJ
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Posted By: eagle
Date Posted: 8/07/04 at 11:17am
I tried using plaster and I found that it cracked, I had wanted to try using it for the donkey mask but it seemed not a very usable material because of this feature.
To make the tree trunk irregular bark we used pulverized toilet paper in white glue. Really gooey stuff like clay. Students experimented with it and found that by mixing in more shredded toilet paper the 'paper mache clay' was harder. So you could actually throw on the harder mixture to create an irregular surface. We used wooden chopsticks to 'throw' the paper mache clay onto the surface. It was a bit difficult to paint because of the irregular surface but the effect was great.
I don't know how you can save the plaster surface. But I think plaster is just a material that does crack, so perhaps instead of trying to save it, you might try covering it with paper mache clay.
I will try to attach a picture to show you the final effect.
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Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 8/16/04 at 9:04am
Eagle,
Thanks for the reply. It never occurred to me to try white glue and toilet paper. I have been looking at fiber glass for the at-risk areas, but the resurfacing sounds good. If you hear of anything else, please let me know. This is a large project and we must save it!
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Posted By: multitech
Date Posted: 8/16/04 at 5:25pm
I've had great success useing spray on foam insulation. Th etype that comes in a can and grows. I've used a plywood base or even foam insulation sheets to creat the basic shape and then ues the canned foam to create the outer texture. Looks like bark, after you get the technique for allyingit, or work as a team. One person applies and the other shapes, you need to be quick it sets up in minutes.
Multitech.
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Posted By: eagle
Date Posted: 8/19/04 at 12:12am
Wasn't able to attach a picture but you can still see the bark of a tree we made at http://www.mss.edu.hk/2003-04/MidSummer04/midsummer_page/ind ex.htm
click on "workmen" under gallery then choose the 11th picture. As the picture enlarges, you can see the irregular surface of the bark between the two actors.
We made the bark with the method I mentioned before i.e. white glue mixed with warm water and shredded toilet paper mixed until clay like. A bit harder than dough-texture and then 'whipping' it on the surface of the column.
We then painted it after it dried. The paint doesn't get on as fast because of the irregular surface but after moving it back up vertical some of the white areas you see horizontally disappeared. We used synthetic paint (used for walls) mixed with water.
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