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James R
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bullet Topic: For All scenery Painters
    Posted: 6/07/05 at 6:10am

Hi

I'm a scenic artist with some years experience painting scenery for West End shows in the UK.  I'm planing a book on painting scenery aimed at community theatres and I'm trying to get a better idea of the way you work so that I can make the book more useful.  I'd really appreciate your replies on the following.

1)  What is your budget for painting materials per show.

2)  How long do you have to paint each production and how many people are involved.

3) What kind of materials do you use.  Are they from a specialist supplier, house painting materials or both.

4)  What sort of workspace do you paint in

5)  Do you paint cloths/backdrops as well as flats and 3D pieces and if so are these on a frame, on the floor or flown from a bar.

Lots of questions I know.  Thanks very much in advance

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lizzieley
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bullet Posted: 9/21/05 at 7:32pm

hello! I'm doing beauty and the beast this year for my high school in a town of 5,000 people. Which requires a lot of sets and big props with a lot of paint! i'll try to answer your questions as best as i can

1) My director didnt give me a budget. He expects it to be a lot this year because of so many colors. We try to use what we have and buy cheap. I expect for us to spend anywhere from $200 - $500.

2)Well with West Side Story, we worked for about 2 hours a night for about 3 days a week. We had maybe 5 people that really worked hard and actually showed up. We worked for about 2 1/2 to 3 months. For JC superstar, it was only one set so we worked for about 2 weeks on it from whatever time we could sqeeze in. We had about 7 people who really worked on it.

3)We go to a local hardware store

4)We work right on the stage

5) we have various flats of different sizes all over the stage. we also have "witch boxes" that are on the side of the stages that we make things to fit up there.

Let me know when and where i can find this book. i have been looking for something like it for ages! thank you!

I'm a high school student who designs sets for my high school musicals. We're doing beauty and the beast this year! I've already done West side story, JC Superstar and Pirates. I'd love to talk to you
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Giabow
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bullet Posted: 9/25/05 at 9:05pm
1)? What is your budget for painting materials per show.


      I don't really have a budget except to spend as little money as
possible.
2)? How long do you have to paint each production and how many
people are involved.


       We normally have a week for tech and open on Friday. So if I have to
paint after the set its loaded in, I have Sunday night to Thursday night
(Friday during the day if I don't have to work elsewhere.) If I don't have to
wait till after load in, I can paint in the shop when the show before us is in
performance. 2-3 weeks (depending on the show.)
3) What kind of materials do you use.? Are they from a specialist
supplier,?house painting materials or both.
      For paint, I use either what's leftover in the shop, or else I get it at
Home Depot. The "oops" shelf is great if you don't have a specific color
you need.
     Rollers and stuff I get at Home Depot. For more detail things, I use
the Rosco paint brushes I had to get for scenic painting class in college.
4) ?What sort of workspace do you paint in
    Either onstage or in the shop (the second floor of an old warehouse.)
5)? Do you paint cloths/backdrops as well as flats and 3D pieces and if
so are these on a frame, on the floor or flown from a bar.
       Yes. They're on frames as we have no fly space.
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Joan54
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bullet Posted: 10/04/05 at 1:14pm

I am the Designer for a small ( 15- 20 members) Shakespeare Rep Co. on Eastern Long Island in New York -:

The budget is 0.  Any money we make (ha!) goes back into advertising, costumes, theater rental and travel expenses.  Any materials I use are out of my own pocket.  I would estimate that I spend 300-400 dollars for each show...less if I can re-cycle drops.

I paint the drops on artists grade canvas ( 52" wide by 84") or high grade burlap ( 36" rolls) or quality linen or cotton.  I prime the fabric with a good house primer ( Benjamin Moore Fresh Start Acrylic)  and then paint it with mostly other Benjamin Moore Paints.  I only use latex and I tend to buy 5-6 gallons ( about $25-30 a gal.) of primary or base colors and then mix all of the colors I need.  I also use fabric paint, dye, ink or anything else that will give me the effect I need.

I buy the canvas at a local art supply store, the fabric at local thrift stores which have a surprising amount of fabric at very low rates ( I also make the costumes). The paint I get from a paint store in the neighborhood.

I work on narrow panels ( 36" - 52" wide) which I roll out on my work table (also dining room) at home.  This means that I can get a bit done at odd times of the day rather than having to go to the theater or workshop. When the panels are done I can take them to our barn ( where all of the props etc. are stored) and stitch them together on the floor.

I paint everything that the company needs - furniture, props,flats etc.  Sometimes if I want to change the color of our risers( I have built a portable stage) I get a working crew of actors together and give them all rollers and buckets of paint.....nothing gets done but getting to watch actors try to paint is one of my amusements.  Similar to the giggles they get when I try to act..  Also we drink beer.

I try to get the drops painted months ( if not years) in advance.  One advantage of doing Shakespeare is that I can anticipate all of the plays and many of the scenes are similar.  I paint most of the drops to resemble tapestries...I am not a "realism" painter and perspective gives me headaches.  When you work for free you have to be painting something that is enjoyable or it won't get done.

I am always open to new ideas...how to hang the drops and roll them up....also how to decoupage other fabric and paper onto the canvas would be wonderful.  I am experimenting all the time..many failures but also some small victories.

"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 10/05/05 at 12:05pm
 Sorry for sticking my nose in James on your topic!
But Joan have thought of using unbleached calico instead of artist canvas?
I normally pick up a bale of calico, which are the off cuts of loom runs from an furniture upholstery Supply Company here. The calico is just roughly folded & is about 6? wide & comes in various lengths upto about 10 yards long.
The calico is used for the underneath lounge chairs & is only about 10% of the cost of calico that comes on roles from shops..
The bales are sold on weight & that can vary betwen 100 to 200 lbs. The last lot I bought was only  $100[AUD] for a 160lb bale. I have had it for a number of years & skined heaps of flats, backdrops used it for costumes & set masking.
With back drops I use 2 part contact poxy glue & join the panel strips so the panels will hang horizontally rather than from top to bottom. This allows for shrinking evenly, over the full width of the cloth, after painting & reduces uneven puckering on the panel seams, that you can get when they are hung up & down..
Also it easier when painting to include and cover the horizontal seem in the scene, more so than the up & down ones.
Just a thought that may help you Joan!

Joe

      Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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Joan54
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bullet Posted: 10/06/05 at 2:26pm
Ha!  I love having such constructive advice. I feel like I have been the lone artist surrounded by actors and now I have found some prople who talk about calico, seams, shrinkage etc.   Great!  Why didn't I think of horizontal joints?  You are so right that I have fussed and struggled with side wrinkles.  I will go on a search for calico this very week.  The artist's canvas is costing me about 30$ to make two modest drops - and that's not factoring in the cost of priming - pre-primed is about 45$.  Do you hang the drops with the selvedge on the sides or on the top and bottom?  Does it matter?  Also..I have had the problem of light shining through the drops ( when we do daytime performances) and rigged up a row of curtains with a great deal of sweat ( also alarmed the fire marshal).  What are the repercussions of painting the back side of drops? 
"behind a thin wall of logic panic is waiting to stampede"
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 10/06/05 at 10:15pm
With the  collective sag weight & the shrinkage of the weave on the vertical panel seams, they have the tendency  to strain & pucker unevenly with the down ward pressure  inherent in hanging drops. Where with the horizontal seam normally being a larger edge area, the shrinkage is evenly taken up.
With the salvage edge I prefer this to be over the top of the panel underneath, as it won?t become a reservoir for excess paint & reduces paint runs, also it doesn?t leave splotchy wet seams after the drying time, from a build up of paint.
Because the length of the  calico runs horizontally to the stage on the drop, the torn/cut off edge on the width is on the OP & Prompt sides on the finished drop.
Calico tears in a straight line evenly along the weft [or is it the waft?] of the weave, after making a small cut to the widths edge.
With drops it is advisable as a rule to paint or spray soak a strip with water, on the back side edge off stage edge of the cloth, this prevents the edge rolling of the cloth, which is not held flat by a head or tail batten.
I apply weak solution of wallpaper size for the prime coat, as this bonds the surface & shrinks the raw weave tighter for painting, thus reducing saggy cloth caused by the paint brush, when paint is applied for the first time.
I know others like James prefers to use the hot wallpaper size, but cold is fine for me & I don?t have to mess about with keeping it warm & enduring the rotten socks smell!
Applying the hot water size does assist with shrinkage & any size that has solidified over night, can be rejuvenated by adding a bit of boiling water to mix up again.
Painting the back of the cloth can help to reduce any light bleeding through, however I have never found this to be a worry, the size application & shrinking of the weave may help, during the daytime & be the answer!
I hope this helps!
Joe




 
 
      Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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