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Gymmic10
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bullet Topic: definition of "truck"
    Posted: 6/13/05 at 1:51pm
I have been searching many set design websites lately as i am the set designer for the upcoming season at my theater.  Many of these websites say that the flats are on "trucks".  Many of these sets are up to 20 feet tall and have one set painted on the front and a fold out set on the back.  Since they are so tall, how can they be made to be stable and when rolling on the "trucks", how can you ensure that they do not tip over and potentially ruin the production.  I would like to build sets similar to some of these i have seen on the internet but want to make sure that they are safe and stable.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks. 
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NickH.
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bullet Posted: 6/14/05 at 4:20pm
Unless you design sets for the Metropolitan Opera, you don't have to concern yourself with any flats taller than 12 feet. For truck use I wouldn't go beyong 10 feet. The secret to making flats for trucks is weight distribution: Top-light, bottom-heavy. Lightweight flats are made of muslin stretched over wooden frames made from 1x4 lumber. On the other hand, the trucks themselves are usually fairly heavy, made of 2x6 lumber on 18-inch centers and covered with 3/4-inch plywood. Frequently, the plywood is covered with 3/4-inch pressboard for sound absorption. Trucks should have heavy duty casters for positive movement. Wedges keep the trucks from moving as the actors step on or off them.
I'm sure there are more ideas around, and they're gonna start popping any time now....

If all the world is a stage, what am I doing in the wings?
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Gymmic10
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bullet Posted: 7/10/05 at 11:56am
Thank you so much for your help.  If anyone else knows anything about this, I could use all the help I can get.  Any more specifics about the constructions of these trucks would be very helpful.  Thanks again!!
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Gaafa
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bullet Posted: 7/11/05 at 5:31am

Try & design your truck sets to travel straight on & off stage, with fixed castors mounted in the direction of travel. This will save a lot of drama for the Mechs/Techs to handle. Use castors with sealed bearing axles on the wheels, not the cheap ones that only have a bolt thru the wheel. Check them under load or see there is no side slop movement, while holding the mounting plate in your hand & moving the wheel from side to side, there should be no movement or side slop on the axle.

You can use door stops as a brake, the type that are pressed down with the foot, on the spigot & released by pressing the locking plate around the springed spigot. There are other types using a paint brush, which swivels down & jams against the stage or wedges as suggested.

I find that a wooden braced T piece, hinged to the plynth of the truck, at the cross bar & lies flat on the stage. Is better for pushing & pulling the truck. The T cross piece when it is in the down position, can also act as a brake, that jams the wheel of the castor. You will find it easier to control moving the truck.

      Joe
Western Gondawandaland
turn right @ Perth.
Hear the light & see the sound.
Toi Toi Toi Chookas {{"chook [chicken] it is"}
May you always play
to a full house}

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Gymmic10
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bullet Posted: 7/23/05 at 12:36am
Thank you guys so much.  those will help a lot.  if anyone else knows anything it will be greatly appreciated, as the only things i know are the things in the above replies.  thanks again!
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NickH.
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bullet Posted: 8/04/05 at 5:22pm
You know, there are scads of technical books on scenery making and such. Check with your local library. It also helps to have someone who understands construction. Anyone who's done carpentry will do.
If all the world is a stage, what am I doing in the wings?
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